Trip Report (Oct 22nd-29th)

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Escrito por Somestrangedream desde (?) el día lunes, 06 de noviembre, 2006 a las 18:03:29 horas :

Sunday - OH NO! We missed our connecting flight in Houston so we were stuck there for the night. It might not have been so bad but we didn’t have a car, luggage and our hotel wasn’t close to anything so I just sat and pouted all night – thinking of where I should be.

Monday – Safely in Zihuatanejo around 3:00. I was so surprised at how easy it was to maneuver through the airport there. We were through the line in 10 minutes and ready to hop in a taxi since we missed the free ride we could’ve gotten from the hotel owner the previous day. We checked in at Bungalows La Madera shortly after, stripped down, suited up and headed directly for the beach. I was delighted to see that our hotel was situated directly above MJ and Richey’s once we descended the stairs, so obviously this was our first stop. We ordered shrimp tiritas and margaritas. The tiritas were so refreshing with the lime juice squeezed all over them. They definitely hit the spot. The margaritas here (although not strong at all) tasted very natural and fresh and were my husband’s favorite among all the margaritas we had all week. After we played around in the water a bit, it was time to shower and head into town to see what we could see. We walked down the charming little street called Calle Adelita and decided to stop in at Salvadors. The sign boasted 2 for 1 margaritas and pina coladas so we decided to strap a few on. It was a great deal (2 drinks for $4 all day) and the pina coladas were so creamy and delicious. We ate chicken enchiladas and chile rellenos there and they were good as well and CHEAP. From there we took a walk into centro to familiarize ourselves with everything and I found it to be pretty confusing. There are a lot of nooks and crannies and little streets that are not meant for cars but to be walked on foot. We followed a map all week and still found it to be challenging and got turned around nearly everyday. Lucky for us, later that night the owner of the bungalows drove us into town to show us his favorite places to hang out at night so we didn’t need to navigate in the dark. We ended up at Zorro’s for $1 cervesas and I tried my first Victoria. Yummy. A street vendor drew a very sexalicious busty caricature of me while I was there too. I fell in love with it instantly as I am NOT sexalicious nor well endowed! That capped the night and we headed home to sleep.

Tuesday – Back to Calle Adelita for a late breakfast at La Casa Café the next morning. This was our favorite street. We both had our first taste (definitely not the last) of chilaquiles. We were not disappointed. I also had a delicious mocha cappuchino there as well as a great fruit drink called “Green mix.” It was a combo of pear, apple, and cucumber juice and was the perfect thing for a hot day and man, oh man it was hot! From there, we crossed the canal and walked down fisherman’s walk into town. The wait staff at Casa Arcadia convinced us to have a seat so we obliged them and ordered up pina coladas. They brought out two massive drinks decorated with flowers. Shortly after a young boy and older man approached us for musica and we took them up on the offer. They sang Besame Mucho for us - their strong voices ringing through the air. Next we successfully found Rick’s bar. We had looked everywhere the previous day and couldn’t seem to locate it. We sat down to cool off with some cervesas and chatted it up with Rick for a while about our plans for lunch. They were about to close as we were finishing our last beer. The bartender approached us and encouraged us to stay as he closed, and he would show us the best lunch that money could buy. We were totally excited to get the inside track from someone who knows best (a local) so we happily accepted. Soon we were shooting a couple free shots of Tequila and then rumbling down the road in a big purple van. We came to a restaurant (Navito el Travieso) about 10 minutes out of town (Playa Larga). This was truly the climax of my entire trip. It was the most surreal experience. We walked to the back of the empty restaurant and descended the stairs and walked out into the most beautiful strip of beach I’ve ever seen. It was completely empty and secluded - and truly breathtaking. I couldn’t get the smile off my face. Then there was the food – OH the food. We had fish tiritas and sopas that were out of this world. I would literally close my eyes and chew one slow bites at a time to relish the flavor. The wind whipping through my hair, cold cervesa, sand between my toes, the food, the beautiful ocean made for one of the most perfect moments of my life. And this was by far the cheapest meal we ate all week and the best in my opinion. Unfortunately our good fortune ended once we left the restaurant because Adam was puking the rest of the night. He was so sick that he literally didn’t know what was going on around him and had no time perception at all. It was late the next day before he felt back to himself. I felt fine and we ate and drank all the same things so I’m not sure what happened but the dose of Pepto we took every morning definitely didn’t stop it from happening. It was a rough night with little sleep for both of us.

Wednesday: I dragged Adam out of bed for breakfast. We ate at Banana’s which was my favorite breakfast all week. I had chiliquiles again (this time with both eggs and chicken) and Adam had about 2 bites of some sort of omelette with chorizo and cheese. His stomach couldn’t handle food yet. After breakfast we checked out of the Bungalows and headed for the next hotel we had reserved, Brisas Del Mar. We wanted to upgrade for a few days and enjoy a room with a Jacuzzi. The room was gorgeous and the bed decked out in flowers. After check in we were hungry for lunch. We went back to Rick’s to meet our friend for lunch again. This time we went to Barra de Potosi and ate at Enramada Nayito. We stuffed ourselves on sail fish, octopus, and abalone. It was yet another perfect meal on a beautiful beach. I was starting to think we couldn’t be led wrong by Memo. Dinner that night was Adam’s favorite meal of the week and definitely rated at the top for me as well – De Donde Eres on Calle Adelita. This restaurant offers three different dishes every night. The restaurant offers ethnic dishes from around the world. We shared a carafe of Chilean red wine and ordered two different dishes so we could sample them off each other’s plates. I had Vietnamese BBQ Pork Skewers and Adam had Vegetarian Lasagna. Both dishes were impeccable. I was shocked to hear the chef did not have a degree of some sort in cooking because the flavors were so delicate and expertly blended. Both dishes had so many layers of flavor and the price was definitely right at $10 an entrée. The owners are so kind and extremely charismatic with shiny smiling faces and good conversation. It was such a small intimate place. We really felt that we were eating out of their kitchen at home and it made the ambiance all the more appealing.

Thursday: Breakfast at Fonda Economica Susy. Guess what I had? I bet you guessed right – Chiliquiles. These were so SPICY so beware if you have sensitivity to hotness. They tasted good but I wasn’t blown away by them. Contrary to me, Adam had his favorite breakfast here – once again an omelette with chorizo and cheese and bacon. Directly from Susy’s, we went to Las Gatas. The water taxi trip over was a pretty sweet little trip. Memo suggested that we have drinks at Chez Arnoldo’s so that’s where we camped out. The service here was impeccable. Ask for Che – he was great. He continued to bring out fresh bowls of ice to keep our beers ice cold, put flowers in my hair and took pictures of us, gave Adam packages of crackers to feed the fish while snorkeling, and offered tons of advice. Adam loved snorkeling and said that he saw tons of fish. The best snorkeling spot was just beyond the long row of rocks – a long swim but Adam said it was well worth it. Lunch brought us to Rick’s Bar again so our new friend and tour guide could show us the best place to get Pozole. Our goal was to try all the regional dishes and lucky for us, we had the best guide to take us to them. We ended up at Santa Prisca Pozoleria. This place is only open on Thursday and only serves Pozole so you KNOW it’s a specialty and is bound to be delicious. We walked down the stairs to the restaurant and the large space was completely packed. And I mean PACKED. There was a Cuban band playing and we were the only white folks there. I knew we were in the right place. We ordered Pozole Blanco with Pork. The bowl was huge and we were given avocados and onions and tortillas as garnishments. It was a wonderful, cheap meal. Soon we found ourselves being invited to the front table for the best view of the band and they began to play a few American songs (Piano Man, All My Love) for us in Spanish. We loved it. The next musician (a TOTAL hottie – whoa) dedicated Dust in the Wind to us. After that, we decided that we wanted to check out La Ropa. It was almost sunset so I knew that a drink at the Catalina’s Sunset bar would do the trick. We made it there for happy hour which was the icing on the cake. The panoramic view was truly unbelievable. The pictures I took of the sunset there were awesome! And the drinks were strong. Yay! That night we treated ourselves to a nice, romantic dinner out at Casa Bahia. We had a table on the top floor with the most beautiful view of the bay and the twinkling lights of Zihua. It truly was romantic and the food was wonderful. We both had the Neptune entrée – pasta with lobster, shrimp, and calamari. It was to die for. The bill was steep but well worth it in every way.

Friday: We woke up early and headed out to Casa Vieja to see if they were open for breakfast. Once we arrived and saw it wasn’t open til lunch, I noticed a dog lying in the doorway of the restaurant. It had obviously been beaten again and again over the course of its life as it had wounds all over his body. I am an animal lover to an extreme so I was devastated at the sight and reached my hand out stupidly to pet it as I did every other animal I came in contact with. The dog bit the crap out of me! My ring finger was gashed pretty badly and bleeding. I knew that I needed band-aids and antiseptic so we were to Miscelana La Rana to see what we could find. The lady at the mini market quickly pulled out a first aid kit, antiseptic, limes, and gauze and patched me up. It was so kind of her and I was truly touched. She offered her husband up as a chauffer to the doctor as well but I didn’t want a shot, so I declined. Adam progressively got more and more upset as the hour passed, worried that I might get rabies and kept pressing me to go so I agreed to go after I ate breakfast. We ate breakfast at La Casa Café again. It was so close to our hotel and very good so we ended up here three times over the course of the week. This time we had a Southwestern omelette and banana pancakes with coconut syrup. It was perfect as usual. The lady owner (can’t remember her name) is a true wealth of knowledge and gave us tons of advice throughout the week. She led me in the direction of a good English speaking doctor to tend to my dog bite so I didn’t have to worry anyone for a ride. He gave me an anti inflammatory and sent me on my way as he said he knew the dogs in that area were vaccinated and thought he knew the dog I described. No shots! Woohoo! We decided we wanted some time at the beach next so we headed back to Madera. We camped out at the Brisas’ restaurant and ordered some drinks and what I thought was going to be Abalone as a appetizer. Miscommunication led me to receive a slice of apple pie. Ha. While I delved into my trashy romance novel under the palapas, Adam dove into the water. He played around for a while, and then we decided to shower and have lunch. We had lunch at Los Braseros – shrimp tacos. These were sooooo good and extremely inexpensive. We loved that place with its authentic Mexican charm. Dinner was at Don Memos because Adam had a craving for Italian. This was the one of the few meals that we had that was pretty unimpressive. I had an Aztec soup because I was still full from lunch. It was just okay. Adam had lasagna and he thought it was okay. I tasted it and thought it was pretty bad. It had a very artificial tasting sauce that tasted more salsa-y than italian. We had heard compliments on the restaurant all week so maybe it was just an off night. It was definitely affordable which was a plus. After dinner, we returned to Rick’s Bar and Adam got to do a set of his original songs after Josie was finished. Everyone was extremely impressed and doted on him endlessly, suggested he come back for Guitar Fest. I was so proud! 

Saturday: We went back to our old faithful, Salvadors. We had been there for drinks a half dozen times and had dinner there so we decided to try his breakfast. I had chiliquiles with chicken and eggs again. It was the most massive breakfast of the week and the cheapest. Adam had his usual omelette with chorizo and cheese. We both thoroughly enjoyed it. I’d pass on the orange juice and coffee though. The coffee was pretty horrible and the juice was hot. After going back to the room for showers, we decided to go back to MJ and Richey’s so we could have a prime spot on the beach. We got Pina Coladas and sat back and did some people watching. After that, we decided that we wanted some more beach time on La Ropa so we got into a taxi and headed to La Perla. (Tip: Do not ask the taxi drivers how much you owe them – they over quoted EVERY single time we did it. We eventually came to a point that we just handed them 2.50 and got out of the car – of course unless it was a further distance.) Adam had a really awesome fish there – it was sailfish with arrijo (spelling?) and I had fish tiritas as I had become totally addicted to them. I also got fish tacos. The tiritas were delish but the fish tacos were TERRIBLE. It tasted like dry tuna fish from a can with no seasoning wrapped in a tortilla. Nonetheless, I really liked this place. We were right on the beach with our toes in the sand, the white Russians were yummy, and Adam was able to get a couple Cuban cigars. We played around in the water for a while and decided to trek back to the hotel. Just in time for happy hour, no less. We met the charming little bartender and ordered up a couple sangria. They were perfectly made – so cold and pretty and sweet. We made plans to eat at Fortinos II for dinner. Everyone raved about it throughout the week, so I was excited. Unfortunately once we got there, it had just closed so we had to make other arrangements. We ended up at La Sirena Gorda because I absolutely HAD to have a whole red snapper before I left Zihua. So that’s what I ordered (blackened) and Adam had the catch of the day (Mahi Mahi) in an oregano preparation. Both of our dishes were totally delectable and I felt that this place was one the best values we stumbled onto all week. The fish was so fresh and the price was very affordable. (I made Adam eat the eye balls out of my fish! Hahaha)

Sunday: Man – it’s our last day. The week really flew by and we only have the morning to enjoy the last bit of Zihua that we can. We woke up and ate breakfast at La Casa Café – hotcakes and a breakfast burrito and headed to the markets to buy some keepsakes. We found a little stall that had some lemon tree boxes that we thought were really pretty so we purchased two and bought a plate to match. Next we went to Don Migue’s on Fisherman’s Walk for a drink. We had promised the young boy that work there all week that we would come back to have lunch or a drink, so we didn’t want to break it. I had a pina colada and Adam had coffee. He said the coffee on Fisherman’s walk was his favorite. Then it was off to the airport to head home.

This trip was truly amazing. The kindness of the people we met made the trip something it could’ve never been by ourselves. We really loved the small town feeling of Zihua, the peacefulness, the young lovers everywhere, the charm, the beauty. It was a trip I will never forget.

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